Author Archives: Claire

Polish Turkey

Last Saturday, the school’s social committee organized a trip to Polonezkoy. For me it’s one of the nicer things about teaching abroad…  there is a built in community of teachers.  This Polish village is about 45 minutes from Istanbul, but you need to hire a bus or car since no public transportation goes there.  Not ideal, but workable.

What a lovely day. I was expecting more of a main street vibe, but it was smaller which gave it a quieter feel. There are trails for hiking and biking as well as a Catholic church (which was closed) and a cemetery. From my understanding, this village was established in 1842 and has retained a strong Polish tradition since. Several of us walked around, hiked a bit, and just generally enjoyed being outside, away from the city for a few hours. Oh, and the food. I had the most delicious meal that day. And don’t get me started on the chocolate cake… perfection.

Below are some photos… enjoy! As a side note, it seems that WordPress has changed the way that the photos are displayed. I really don’t like it, but it’s the best I can do for now. I miss the slideshow aspect… not sure why they changed it. Ah well.

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Dear Istanbul

Dear Istanbul,

The other day someone was telling me that they didn’t like you so much. Look, I understand how someone is simply not a good fit for a place (see pretty much all my blogs on China), but it made me really think about what it is that I like about you.

Yes, your traffic is rage inducing and your store aisles are ridiculously tiny. Also, it wouldn’t hurt if people here were more aware of others around them (this is my personal space bubble, that is yours). And there isn’t so much green space; a few more parks would be nice. But just when I think it’s a bit too much, I will catch a glimpse of the moon’s light floating on the Bosphorus, or hear the call to prayer and then you have charmed me once again.

Cafes, restaurants, galleries, museums, and cobblestone alleyways cluttered with all types of street art continue to inspire. But it’s more than just the places. It just feels like you are full of opportunities and bursting with small secrets waiting to be discovered.

People ask me how long I see myself with you. It’s a funny question for me because I simply don’t know. There have been times when you have made my heart sing and as a result, it makes me think about all of the things I could and want to do with my life. But at the exact same time, I am just content to stroll and see the sun glisten off a golden relic of days gone by.

Oh Istanbul. You sure aren’t perfect, but right now, you are perfect for me.

Claire


Tourist and Time

While reading a book about a graffiti artist, I started thinking about life and time. And well, my dream about a horrible, world ending, global nuclear war didn’t help. In the dream, I was watching my computer screen with the continents lighting up and I had just enough time to think… well, this is it. The dream ended  peacefully but it left me with a feeling of uncertainty, the type that only a scary dream can leave you with. Again, must stop reading The Economist before bedtime. Ugh, North Korea… just stop it already.

In this book about Banksy, the graffiti artist, I am learning about this entire sub-culture within street art. I am not even going to pretend to be so cool and hip as to ‘get it’ but it’s really fascinating. One recurring theme throughout the book is that when the pieces are created, it is with the understanding that they won’t last forever. The idea is just to get your work up on a wall, in a daring disregard for the law, but it is not meant to be permanent. Ironically and for several reasons, Banksy’s work is now considered ‘art’ and are preserved when possible and sold for a lot of money. Even the English government seems to have a seat on the Banksy train.

Now Istanbul is full of street art; it’s one of the aspects I really enjoy about this city. It’s ever changing with new artists and new ideas… it’s visually stimulating. Plus it’s a bit of a slap in the face to the art establishment, even as they embrace it.  And who doesn’t like a bit of rebellion every now and then?

But trying to preserve the works by Banksy got me thinking about life. I want certain parts of my life to stay the same. I want to think that the friends I have now will be the friends I have forever, but who knows? Also, I love my apartment here. However, because of rising rents in Cihangir, I am probably going to have to change apartments next year. I know I shouldn’t get too attached which is a bummer. But at the same time, I know eventually I will move for whatever reason, so why act like it’s permanent in the first place? I mean, I have lived in three countries in the past four years. So like a cool piece of street art that probably won’t be there in a month… enjoy it while it lasts!

It’s Spring Break for me and instead of heading out, I am staying in Istanbul. The weather is just about perfect and the crowds aren’t too bad. I just love this city and can’t wait to explore it this week! Enjoy the photos from Claire the Tourist!


I Was Wrong

I didn’t think Istanbul could get any more beautiful… but then came the tulips.

This morning, I visited Emirgan Park with some friends to see the tulips. The only thing I can say is that it was just lovely. All of the colors… so pretty. Plus the weather is just perfect this weekend. Not too hot, not too cold – just right.

Afterwards, I went on a bit of a walk and discovered Beşiktaş Bazaar. It’s a great market place for vegetables, spices and other things like clothing and some (fake) designer goods! I have a week off at the end of this month and I plan on exploring this city a little bit each day. There is so much to do and see. What a wonderful place.

Below are some photos of the tulips. I got a bit fancy with some filters… enjoy!


Time Thief

About 100 years ago, I was visiting a friend in Germany. After my bags were packed, goodbyes were said, hug given, I arrived at the airport only to find out that my plane didn’t leave until the next day. I got the dates wrong.

This weekend the reverse happened. I booked my flight for Pamukkale, Turkey for the wrong dates. When I called to try and rectify the situation, the difference in price was too great to justify for an overnight.

I swear I have some form of dyslexia because I find that when I look at numbers, many times, they move or transpose.  I am pretty sure it’s why I was terrified of math as a child. I have also done a bit of internet research and um, yeah. I think I just diagnosed myself!  However, over the years, I have adopted compensatory tricks and I manage it all pretty well.

When I realized I had booked the wrong dates for my overnight, I was sad (like drop your ice cream on the sidewalk sad) but not surprised. It is why I had a travel agent in Hong Kong. People thought it was crazy to pay extra, but it was worth it because I knew he would get it right.

As I was unpacking my bags at midnight, I realized that because I am supposed to be out of town, I am stealing time! No one knows I am home. I can do things that I am usually too busy or distracted to do! Today was the first day that I sat down at a coffee house by myself and just wrote. At times, I am so busy being busy that I forget to just enjoy. Which leads me to ask myself… am I just filling up days with stuff to do or am I doing stuff that is fulfilling?

This time stealing aspect of the weekend has created a no-pressure zone. Plus the weather is cold and blustery… perfect for a ghost! There have been a couple of things I want to research. I think a Turkish travel agent might just top the list!


Incredible India Part 2

If you have a moment, I uploaded some more photos of my trip to India… enjoy!


Incredible India

I realized that as I was bargaining, I was bargaining over the equivalent of a US dollar. That’s the thing about India. It is constant motion, everyone is hustling, and the prices are ridiculously low.

India is literally bursting at the seams with humanity. Every head turn is a different story. Privacy must be a premium here because this place is just packed with humans, cows, monkeys, dogs, and many, many vehicles. And it seems to me that the residents of New Delhi live out loud. Outdoor barbershops, dentists, showers, and hair washing, peeing on walls, monkeys on fences, cows in the street and in people’s yards… pure madness. Yet it seems to all work. People seem to just make do and get things done. Remarkable really.

A favorite memory is when we went to a Hindu temple (Mandir) to hear chanting at sunset. Walking around, reading the walls with the different prayers and words for living a good life with a cool breeze brushing my skin felt surreal in many ways. Two things struck me while reading the walls. One was that good and evil acts come back to earth in human form. The other was the idea that in order to have wisdom; things like lust, anger, passion, desire, and greed must be avoided. So we got into a bit of a discussion regarding this. Don’t we sometimes have experience these things to live and gain wisdom? Aren’t we supposed to follow our hearts? Isn’t that the spice of life? I guess the idea is to not let the above rule you. Still interesting thinking and it also reminded me how religions have the same themes. We aren’t so different. In the world, I guess I wish we could focus more on the similarities.

As far as the chanting, I really tried to let myself be in the moment and in that instant, I felt eternal. It was a good night.

One interesting thing that I did notice was about the women. First of all, I saw a lot of men outside. Many were doing their thing, but many were just hanging around and chitchatting. I never once saw this with women. The women who were outside were working. Bundles on heads, sweeping the walk, carrying babies, lifting, moving… they were busy. Also, the colors. The colors on the sarees, trimmed with sparkles are just beautiful. It stands in direct contrast with the poverty. Women were doing construction work in these!

The Taj Mahal is shear perfection. It’s exactly what you think it would be, but better. The coolness of the marble, the curve of a dome… exceptional.

The poverty is right in your face in India. The children, regardless of the beautiful smiles, were the most difficult aspect for me to contend with. I mean, what’s really the difference between them and me?  Where I was born? That’s really it. Also the crowds can be crushing. The noise can be deafening. And the smells. Actually, that was much worse in China – no joke. But then there are the colors, the sparkle, the bargaining, the cows, the breeze, the tuk tuks, the faces, the grins, the small kindnesses that just make India so beautiful and compelling.

I am not doing India justice in this post and I find this one of my more difficult blogs to write.  I am trying to condense a week that in some ways, felt like a lifetime. I can’t explain it. Most of the time, I really like my life. I am so blessed. But when I got back to Istanbul and unpacked, it was just one of those times when I was in love with my life. India is fascinating,

The pictures below are ones that I already have on Instagram. I am going to upload some video and more photos by the weekend! Enjoy!


sunrise and sunset in Turkey

I made a quick iMovie of my sunrise balloon ride in Cappadocia. Enjoy!

 


Balloon Rides, Nachos, and Dogs

Cappadocia is a magical place.  As we drove to our cave hotel, I looked up and saw a blanket of stars, gleaming across the sky. The night air was so clear and crisp. It reminded me of Death Valley… the quiet, the emptiness, and the other worldliness of it all.  Humbling and inspiring.

Interesting fact about me; I am not afraid of heights. I always thought I was but I realized that it is the fear of falling from said heights, but not the actual height itself. Well, it makes sense to me.  Anyways, I bring this up because I went on a hot air balloon ride. There is nothing graceful about getting in and out of the basket and my wallet stung a bit from the cost, but man was it amazing. Gently floating in the air, the quiet breeze, the majestic view below – it inspired a poem in me:

to be a bird

soaring in the sky

gentle breezes

sun on my back

hills and valleys below.

ahead of me,

a limitless horizon

oh, to be a bird

soaring in the sky.

As far as Cappadocia is concerned, don’t let my attempt at poetry stop you from visiting this enchanting corner of the earth. Add it to your travel plans when you come and visit me! It is only an hour plane ride away. Plus, I can tell you where you can get the BEST nachos you have ever had in your life. True story.

Enjoy the photos! Side note: the dog is in two of the photos is one of the many wild dogs in Turkey. I took photos of him because if I had a car, I would have taken him home with me. I swear he smiled at me… he reminded me of Ozzy. Sometimes a dog is just a dog. This dog was an angel.


After the Holidays

So much has happened since my last post! I surprised my family by going home for Christmas.  I will never forget the look on their faces as they walked into my mom’s house expecting to decorate cookies.  That was wonderful. Plus just being home, surrounded by friends and family, it was ‘holidaytastic’!

As for coming back to Istanbul, it was a breeze. The beauty of the city alone just resonates deep within me. In many ways, I feel like I am still very much adjusting to my new country, which can be overwhelming and isolating.  Also, some of the best people I know live in San Diego and I miss them. However, it feels good being here.

On the becoming a traveler and not a tourist note, I began my 30 days of yoga last week… tomorrow is class number three. The second class was all in Turkish and I actually understood a couple of words! I am continuing with my ceramics class as well. Glazing and painting this morning while listening to the people around me speak in this foreign language was just very relaxing. However, one guy was from Spain and we conversed for a (very little) bit in Espanol. Ole!

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