Monthly Archives: August 2012

Such a Local

Moving to a new country has its ups and downs. Even with all of the events and activities the school plans, it can be difficult. I really miss my family and friends. Making true friends takes time and effort. Although all of the people I work with and have met so far are really nice, right now, it just feels like a lot of small talk and polite conversations. All of that is great, but I just miss hanging out with people I know and who know me. So when I woke up this morning, I planned on just running some  errands and coming back to clean up my apartment. Nothing too adventurous.

However, as I was eating breakfast, one of the new teachers called me to find this market that everyone has been talking about. I thought to myself, why not? So we met at this cafe and headed out. Then a funny thing happened  that made us both smile. Someone asked us for directions and we were able to show him the way. I gotta admit, it felt good. After that, we found the large outdoor market with delicious fruits and vegetables. The basil smelled amazing and the prices were crazy cheap. I almost felt bad paying about 50 cents for some potatoes, but who am I to argue? All and all, it was a good day today.

The photos below are from my photo trip yesterday. I swear that every inch of this place is a photo opportunity. Amazing.

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La Ciudad de Los Gatos

Currently, there are five… wait, make that six Turkish men in my apartment and it’s a Friday night.  Wouldn’t the women in the headscarves be scandalized!?! Did I mention that? Some, not all, of the ladies that wear the headscarves actually look down on Western women. These particular ladies think all Westerners have loose moral values.  All of us. Whatevs. Since I have been here, I have received several of these looks or treated like I wasn’t there, particularly if they are in groups, as well as being cut in line… of course they have priority.

Well, the men in my apartment are here to install my new alarm system and put in my cable TV. There is also an electrician. Seriously wish I spoke Turkish at this moment.

And as far as the looks, I will just keep on keeping on. I know who I am and recognize that this group of women does not represent all of the women here in Istanbul. Most of the people I have encountered here have been more than kind and helpful. I mean, each and every country has it’s own weirdness so I will just focus on how nice most people are. And to be honest, not everyone is going to like me for whatever reason so why worry?

As a quick side note, the other morning I helped a woman with a headscarf carry a very heavy bag up the hill as she carried her baby. I made sure she knew I was an American woman. I know to pick my battles and it is not every woman in a scarf that thinks poorly of me, but I thought it was an important point.

Below are some photos of my neighborhood. It is so charming! Also, there is a huge stray cat population here in this city. I think I might rename Istanbul to La Ciudad de Los Gatos. True Story.

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Not So Invisible…

Overall, I feel pretty safe in my new city. For the most part, people leave me alone unless I am at a street market or around tourist areas. I just keep on walking and don’t worry too much about being too nice. Some of these guys can be relentless.

It’s interesting to me because in China, I felt invisible. This is not the case here. This morning I went to an area that is falling apart and getting torn down for more commercial abodes and businesses. However, my understanding is the people are who are living there now are being relocated outside of Istanbul, which is making the whole thing a bit contentious.

For the most part, I really listen to my inner travel voice. It has served me well thus far so I tend to trust it. But it was weird this morning because I did not feel comfortable with my big camera taking photos in this particular place. People still live or squat in these run-down buildings and a girl with a camera is probably the last thing they want to see. Additionally, many of the men were kind of yelling/talking to me… that did not put me at ease. Most of the time, I would rather be safe than sorry particularly if I am walking around by myself, which I tend to do when I am taking photos. So I grabbed what shots I could and lit on out of there to have some breakfast with some friends.

Yet as I was walking around this semi-ghost town, I kept thinking of the people that lived there, past and present. I wondered about their stories, wishes, hopes, and dreams. When I live somewhere, I think that it’s going to be around or at least never change. And that’s all life is really, change. So to see these once beautiful and new buildings just torn up and smelling of trash, it was difficult not to get a feeling of nostalgia and empathy for those who don’t want it brought down.

For me, the idea that nothing stays the same is both invigorating and terrifying.  I love comfort but I also love forward motion.  I am not sure if I will visit this small district again, but I am really glad I had the chance to see it firsthand. And anyways, Taksim Square will always be there, right?

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Call to Prayer

I wonder if it is the call to prayer that makes Istanbul so charming.  This city is vibrant. The food has been one great meal after another, the sights are fantastically ancient, and the number of people walking around brings back memories of Hong Kong.  And like any city there is construction, loud neighbors, and traffic. Let me tell you that Los Angeles is the minor leagues as far as congestion is concerned.

But I mention the call to prayer because despite all of the hustle, steep cobblestone alleyways, and the sometimes-crushing crowds, there is a chill vibe that resonates underneath it all.  Shop owners hang out in front of their places of business, people sit in cafes, and children take care of the numerous street cats that inhabit this city. My very limited understanding of the call to prayer is literally that – when the chant comes on, it is time to stop and pray.

I have often called China soulless. I am positive some people would disagree but I would be hard pressed to change my opinion. Maybe here in Istanbul it is the (five-times) daily reminder to think of something or someone other than yourself that is what motivates the residents of this city to stop and reflect, whether they actually kneel down on a carpet or not. Who among us doesn’t need a moment to reflect upon our own actions and perhaps be thankful for what we have? Or maybe ask for some strength or a bit of help in one area or another in our lives? Who doesn’t need a bit of forgiveness every now and then? For me, it’s not really a matter of which religion really because deep down, aren’t most religions ideally just guides for being an overall better human being?

Look, I personally think that five-times a day is a lot and quite honestly, that call to prayer can be ‘cover my ears’ loud with competing mosques and numerous speakers. However, since I have been here, I haven’t heard it much but when I have, it serves to remind me to quietly ask myself if I am acting like a good person and to be thankful for what I have. And if I am being honest, maybe some Turkish Delight. I am only human.

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Dear Ozzy

Dear Ozzy,

I was absolutely gutted when I heard the news of your passing. You will always be one of the greatest dogs that ever lived. I hate to think of not seeing your sweet face when I pull up to Kate’s house or feeling your nose nudge my arm in the hopes of more head scratching. I swear you could read my mind and always greeted me with your tail wagging at full speed. Don’t tell the Freemans but when I came to visit, I really just wanted to rub your tummy and have you put your head on my knee. Ozzy, the stars won’t shine as bright tonight without you and your horse like gallop in the world. I will miss you and you will always be in my heart. Goodbye good buddy. Thanks for being one of the greatest dogs in the world.

Claire


Rings of Familiarity

There are moments of true uncomfortableness when moving to a new country. The journey itself can be challenging. I can’t think of anyone who enjoys long lines at passport control or waiting by the baggage carousal hoping their bags pop out after about 20 hours of travel.

So when I woke up early the other morning, I was a tad disoriented when I realized the electricity was off. Who should I call? How does the phone work? How long do I wait? Is this normal or should I be worried? Where do I go if there is an emergency? Why didn’t I charge my computer last night? Where do I buy milk?  Why can’t I fall back asleep?

Although I was unable to fall asleep again, it was with great relief when the lights did turn back on about 45 minutes later. I flipped on the fan and air conditioner and started roaming around my new place. At the moment, it feels like I am staying in someone else’s apartment, or a hotel, although all of my stuff is strewn about. I am positively shocked by the amount of toiletries I have. No wonder my bags were so heavy!

I compare living or visiting a new city to dropping a pebble in water and what I call the rings of familiarity. The rock is your house and the first ring is what is initially comfortable and familiar. So for instance, yesterday I went out in my new city and I found this cute café with zero English about one block away. Again, first ringer but it felt good to be out and about. Then walking around, I stumbled upon a grocery store, big success for me although still first ring.  You see, within my neighborhood, the roads aren’t on a grid. The streets here are narrow and cobblestone, with no real rhyme or reason that I can discern at the moment. Instead of turn left, it is more like, loop around this corner and then make your way right, up some stairs. For a girl with a developing sense of direction, this can be intimidating.

Also, the other factor is that I don’t like to look lost. I mean I don’t want to look like a tourist for many reasons. Some legitimate, some all ego. But you see, the men hang out in front of their shops so there is a lot of ‘people watching’ happening. The idea of doubling back, having to pass these people again works against my independent nature. Plus, I really can’t tell if they are talking to me or not; I don’t understand Turkish so headphones are a must.

However today I met some fellow teachers and we set up our banks accounts (just don’t ask me what I signed) and we walked around Taksim Square-second ring action. It is literally up the road from my new place. Tomorrow is Istanbul Modern to become a member. However, there is a part of me that is really afraid that I won’t be able to find my way back home. It sounds kind of silly, but I don’t even know how to say my street name so if I get lost, I am really on my own. I know I can do it but it’s easier to claim jet lag then be adventurous sometimes. However, I heard there is a great coffee house down that same road, so I am motivated. Actually, if I find that, I will consider that a big success – third ringer for sure!

I have to say that so far, Istanbul is truly amazing. This afternoon, we finished eating lunch and when we walked out, I realized that I was in Istanbul. Sounds weird but it was awesome.

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